Munich is one of the coolest cities I have ever been to. Walking through all the small, almost hidden laneways you are pretty much guaranteed to discover a new gem; whether it be food, history, art or music.
Germany was the final leg of our 2024 European holiday, flying there after our epic Iceland Road Trip. It was Ross’s birthday earlier that month so as a present I booked for us to spend 3 nights in Munich. Neither of us had been before and with all the brilliant things I heard from friends who had, it sounded like the perfect way to end our trip. To add to the fun I hadn’t told Ross where we were going for his birthday trip, so the location was a complete surprise!
Day 1: The Churches of Munich
Our flight departed Reykjavik early in the morning at 5am, and we headed to the airport on a FlyBus coach with one of us a little more excited than the other.
When we arrived at the airport Ross stared at the departures board trying to guess where we were going, and on the third attempt he had figured it out. After a short flight with Lufthansa Air we headed to our accommodation, Hotel Schlicker. It’s an adorable fifth generation family-owned boutique hotel, centrally located in Munich’s old town. It was absolutely perfect for walking pretty much everywhere!
After getting our bearings we headed straight to Marienplatz, the world-famous square which was founded by Henry the Lion in 1158. The square has many food options to choose from, so we sat and enjoyed lunch in the shadows of the Neues and Altes Rathaus (new and old town halls), while of course enjoying a bit of people watching.
After lunch we checked out some of Munich’s incredible churches which are architectural and historical gems. With some dating back to the 12th century, the imposing buildings are all conveniently located in and around Marienplatz and can easily be seen in one day.
We visited quiet a few, however St. Peter’s Cathedral, Frauenkirche, St. Michael’s, Asamkirche, and Heilig- Geist Kirche were our favourites, with each having their own unique character and story to tell. We spent most of our time inside looking up at the gorgeous ceiling frescos which have been created in, or inspired by, Gothic, Baroque and Rococo architectural styles.
Wandering through these buildings I was captivated by all the intricate details. I was constantly in awe wondering how on earth these magnificent works of art were completed. I was however also saddened to learn that, like most of the city of Munich, the majority of the churches and cathedrals had been rebuilt or restored due to bombings causing severe damage during WWII.
While at St. Peter’s, we went up the church towers (known as Alter Peter or Old Pete) which you can climb for spectacular city views. At 92 meters high, we were delighted to find that there was an elevator which could take you the majority of the way up! You could spend hours taking in the 360 degree views, however it was so bloody hot (and I hate being sweaty) that 15 minutes or so was enough for us.
After a long day travelling and exploring, we headed for our first beer hall in Germany and enjoyed a delicious, hearty Bavarian dinner.
Day 2: Beer, Beer & More Beer
On day two we we continued our self-guided walking tour of Munich’s old city. After breakfast we headed back to Marienplatz and admired some of the treasures scattered across the square.
The Glockenspiel
Everyday at 11am the Neues Rathaus, the central tower in Marienplatz, showcases its Glockenspiel show. There are 32 statues who play out two events from Munich’s history. First is the wedding of Duke Wilhelm V which was celebrated in 1568. In honour of the bride and groom a jousting tournament took place in Marienplatz, and a Bavarian Knight can be seen triumphing over his opponent.
The lower floor shows the Schaeffler dance. After a severe plague epidemic the Munich barrel makers are said to have been the first to venture back into the streets and dance to amuse the plague-stricken population. 43 bells are also used to provide the perfect soundtrack to the show.
If you were walking through Marienplatz a few minutes before 11am and weren’t aware of the Glockenspiel you would be in for a real shock. You’d think there has been a glitch in the matrix as all of a sudden the square goes completely quiet and everyone suddenly stops and looks up, as though in some kind of trance. I really loved that such a gorgeous show unites so many people who want to keep this magical tradition going.
On the southern side of the square is the bronze statue of Julia-Capulet, dedicated to one of literature’s most iconic figures and an ode to Shakespeare’s heroine. The statue was a gift from the city of Verona in 1974 and depicts the young Juilet standing on her balcony contemplating love and fate.
The statue has become a symbol for lovers worldwide, and she is considered to give the gift of undying love if you touch her breast. In fact her bosom has been touched so much that the metal has been stopped from oxidising and reveals her shiny bronze chest. Not being particularly superstitious, but also not wanting to tempt fate, Ross and I both rubbed her boobies to ensure our undying love.
Viktualienmarkt
Our next spot on the token tourist-must-see-list was Viktualienmarkt, which is a large market of over 100 stalls selling everything from wine, fruit, vegetables, meat, bread, homemade gifts and souvenirs. I was beyond excited to find many Christmas decorations to add to my collection; something Ross is now used to hunting for anytime we travel.
The landmark of Viktualienmarkt is it’s blue and white striped maypole (first photo below). Fun fact: every year on May 1, to celebrate the arrival of spring, towns and cities across Germany erect their maypoles. The two weeks prior to this a challenge is presented to Bavarian citizens – the maypole is left lying on the floor of the square, tempting locals to steal it. Instead of punishing the thieves who succeed, the city or town who lost the maypole must host a party in honour of those responsible for outsmarting them. Locals take this traditional very seriously, and one year Munich’s maypole was taken by another town’s police force.
Being in Munich there was of course a beer garden in the markets centre, however for lunch we opted for a quaint café where we enjoyed delicious pasta and wine.
Beer & Bavarian Food Tour
While in Germany we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to do a food and beer tour. Booked through Get Your Guide, we jumped on the Beer and Bavarian Food Tour which was a walking tour of the old city and started outside the old city walls. We hooked up with the rest of our group and were given a beer to tide us over during our short train trip to our first pit stop. We were pleasantly surprised to learn that drinking in public is not illegal… it’s not even frowned upon!
Our first stop was the Oktoberfest Museum, which delved into the unique and royal history of Oktoberfest. It started as a wedding celebration for King Ludwig I in 1810. There were many fascinating beer artefacts on exhibition; including mugs, coasters, and a Cuneiforn Tablet which is (supposedly) from Mesopotamia and details the first know beer recipe from 2400 BC.
Before departing the Oktoberfest Museum we did a tasting at the Museum Stüberl, a small bar on the ground floor. To be honest I can no longer remember the details of the tasting flight we were given, all I know is some tasted delicious and others tasted like arse… but the pretzel we had was salty and glorious! Either way I strongly recommend giving the museum and its bar a visit.
While walking to our next stop our knowledgeable tour guide filled us in on the history of the six brewers of Munich, which after quiet a few samples I decided that Augustiner-Brau was my favourite.
We then visited the famous Hofbrauhaus! It is the most famous beer hall in Munich, where over 1000 people can sit in the multi-storey tavern listening to lively music and enjoying a stein… or 5.
Fun Fact: the hall was originally built in 1589 by Duke Maximilian I and the public wasn’t allowed entry until King Ludwig I granted permission in 1828.
While Hofbrauhaus is definitely a must see in Munich, I preferred some of the other restaurants and beer halls we visited. I am someone who can’t stand loud venues where I can’t have a conversation with the person sitting next to me. This is potentially due to my level of patience declining as my age increases, so if you are the same then I recommend popping into Hofbrauhaus for one before moving on to somewhere else.
Our final location of the tour was Alte Hackerhaus, where we enjoyed a traditional Bavarian dinner. We sat and enjoyed chatting with the others in our tour group, majority of which were Swifties from America who flew over to go to the Eras Tour, and eventually we closed down the bar. While you can visit the Oktoberfest Museum and the different beer halls yourself, the guide was great in taking us back in time through Munich’s beer history and culture. Plus, it’s always fun to meet new people!
Day 3: Art & the English Garden
On our final day in Munich we had two more places to check off our list. With the weather turning on another stunning day (a welcomed change from Iceland), we strolled through the city streets taking in all the amazing buildings on our way to the English Garden.
The English Garden (Englischer Garten) is Munich’s largest park; an oasis the size of 640 football pitches, making it the largest inner city park in the world. What makes it even cooler (both in style & temperature) is that the English Garden is famous for river surfing! It is the largest and best (I don’t surf so will take their word for it) location for city surfing, having being a popular destination for surfers and onlookers for over 40 years.
The man made Eisbach river emerges from underground with a stone step at the outlet creating a standing wave about half a metre tall. It was very impressive, and stays true to German stereotypes, watching all the surfers politely taking turns riding the waves like a well-oiled machine. Further downstream the river is enjoyed by swimmers, with the strong currents taking them on a lovely journey through the garden.
We walked a few kilometres along the many walking trails scattered around the park, refuelled at one of the central beer gardens, then headed to grab a bite to eat before visiting the incredible Alte Pinakothek.
Alte Pinakothek
Until visiting Munich I had no idea that it is home to one of the most significant art museums in Europe. Alte Pinakothek houses one of the world’s largest collections of art created from the 14th to the 18th century. There are more than 700 paintings, with major works by Rubens, Van Gogh, Raphael, Titan, Da Vinci and Rembrandt all on display.
While I can appreciate the incredible artistry and talent that goes into making these masterpieces, I sometimes struggle to appreciate the true impact and importance of certain pieces of work. The final image in the gallery above was my favourite piece; I found it’s dark and demonic story to be mesmerising, and the all the intricate details were absolutely staggering.
Our Final Dinner
Venturing back from Alte Pinakothek we found a brilliant little bar hidden in the inner courtyard of Neues Rathaus. Tucked out of of sight and out of the bustle of the central square, we enjoyed a glass of rose and admired all the stone gargoyles that decorated the walls around us.
For dinner we strolled up another laneway close to our hotel, finding a quaint and picturesque restaurant in a courtyard, complete with a cobblestone street, sculptures on the surrounding buildings and a big beautiful tree. Being our last night in Munich, and of our 2024 European trip, we reflected on how much fun we had had together and started to feel a little sad about having to return to reality.
After dinner, and in search of dessert, we went for one last stroll through Marienplatz. We stopped to watch some buskers which turned out to be members from a Ukrainian Orchestra.
Their music was so beautiful that something strange began to happen… I started to leak from my eyes. I felt so happy in that moment, and lucky for how amazing our last few weeks travelling together had been, that I became overcome with emotion. My embarrassment at my eyes betraying me was eased when Ross gave me a hug and was glassy eyed too.
All in all, our time in Munich was a whirlwind of incredible food, places and people, and with so much more to see we will be definitely going back – hopefully in the near future.
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